Hey there and welcome to this step-by-step guide for building your own unique grip training program for climbing. Follow the steps below and apply what you learn to your training.
Set Your Goal
Make a goal that is SMART — Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-Bound.
“I want to increase my crimp strength in 6 weeks to help me prepare for my climbing trip.”
Pick An Implement & Grip
This grip should be specific to your goal.
Hangboards & Portable Edges
- Open Hand
- Half Crimp
- Full Crimp
- 3-Finger Drag
Bars
- Barbell
- Dumbbell
- Kettlebell
- Pull Up Bar
- Paralettes
Plates, Stones, Homemade
If you can hold it and load it, you can train with it.
Pick A Protocol
Start near 65% of your 1RM for the first session and slowly build from session to session. Once you reach a consistent plateau, rest and evaluate, then continue training. Add load from week to week, aiming to reach RPE 7–8 each session.
5 x 5 1-Second Lifts @ 65–85% 1RM
- RPE 7–8
- 3 Working Sets, 2 Back Off Sets
- 2–4 Minute Rest Between Attempts
3 x 4–6 Second Hang @ 65–85% 1RM
- RPE 7–8
- 2 Working Sets, 1 Back Off Set
- 2–4 Minute Rest Between Attempts
Determining Duration
- Train for 4–6 weeks, 2–4 times per week
- Keep sessions short and intentional
- Find the balance between Minimum Effective Dose and Maximum Recoverable Volume
- Reached a plateau
- Too much fatigue impacts your other training
- Not recovering between sessions
Track Your Progress
Record Your Data: Write down attempts and load used each session for future reference.
Film Your Attempts: Film your attempts to lock down form and reflect on progress over a lifetime.
Progression from week to week is essential. The general trend should be going up, even if individual sessions have ups and downs as you learn your limits.