One session, in this order: warm up, load the fingers while they are fresh, build the hips on easy climbing, then spend the rest of the session on power.
1 · Bends & Twists
Move through each for 20 seconds, smooth and continuous. This is circulation and range, not a stretch session.
1 round, 20 seconds each
2 · Loaded one-arm bar hangs
One arm on the bar, a weight in the other hand. It loads the whole chain and leaves the fingers alone. Shoulder down and back, ribs pulled down.
1 × 10 sec Bar Dead Hang on two arms at bodyweight to warm up
3 × 5 sec 1-Arm Hang each side · Add weight to the off hand to reach RPE 8 to 9 · Rest 2 min
3 · Density hangs
Long, controlled, and never above RPE 7. Shoulders down and back, ribs pulled down, press the fingers into the edge.
4 × 20 sec 20mm Half Crimp Hang on a 20 to 30mm edge · RPE 6 to 7 · Rest 2 to 3 min
Begin with feet on the ground and progressively apply bodyweight to your fingers. Do not exceed RPE 7.
4 · Hips: grab and load
Hard climbing needs strong and capable hips. This block builds them on the wall: your foot grabs the hold, your hip takes the load, and your fingers work only as hard as they need to.
Roughly 5 climbs. Treat it as practice and not as mileage.
- Vertical or slightly overhung terrain
- Grab each hold with your feet, then pull your weight in to load the hips
- Use your feet to push and pull your weight around, not just to stand
5 · Perfect Power Repeats
The hip block was your climbing warm up. Rest 5 minutes, then start. On a board if you have one.
- 6 power boulders at 60 to 85 percent: overhung, simple sequences, hard holds, big moves
- Climb the boulder, rest 60 to 90 seconds, then repeat it, trying to clean it up
- Focus on flow, precision, timing, breathing, relaxing
- Rest 3 to 4 minutes between boulders