Who it's for
Sound familiar?
"I've been stuck at the same grade for six months or more."
Twelve weeks built around how you move, not how strong you are, with tests in weeks 1, 8 and 12 so you can watch it change.
"I know my movement is the problem. I just don't know how to train it."
That's what the structure is for: three fixed sessions, each with one job, the same for eight weeks so you actually get good at them. Every session is on your phone, in order.
"I don't want to spend my sessions lifting to climb harder."
You won't. All three sessions are on the wall. Strength is kept to a short hip and finger block in your warm-up, plus an optional Saturday.
"I climb three days a week, but I don't have a plan."
Keep your three days. MBNS turns them into a limit day, a movement day and a power day that build on each other.
Built for V4 to V9 boulderers who can climb three days a week and will follow the plan for twelve weeks. The guarantee rewards exactly that.
Why I built it
Strength became my weakness
You don't have to get strong first. I did, and it didn't work. I spent years getting as strong as possible: a +135 lb weighted pull-up, 140% of my bodyweight on one hand. I still couldn't climb V8. What got me to V10 was going back to movement: whole sessions on V3s and V4s, hips that take weight off my fingers, feet that hold tension. I've coached 150+ climbers over 10 years. This is the program I wish I'd had when I was stuck.
"For months I had all of this energy and excitement towards climbing and reaching new goals within the sport, the problem was I lacked direction to truly make any progress. Within two weeks of working with DPP the results were visible and the grades were improving."
Maya · V4 to V7
"He was thorough in his explanations and the demo videos of workouts were incredibly helpful as I hate having to google lingo. After the program I sent one of my projects, getting me super psyched to see the hard work payoff."
Tyler · V7 to V9
"Gunnar helped me better understand how to build a foundation in my climbing that I can carry with me for years. He pushed me to challenge myself both physically and mentally which really improved my climbing, especially on sketchy leads."
Dan · V3 to V6
From my 1:1 coaching clients. Names changed for privacy.
How it works
Three days on the wall. Two strength pieces that stayed.
The same three sessions for eight weeks, on purpose: you get good at them. Every wall session opens with a short hip primer and a finger block. When I cut every piece of strength work that wasn't moving my climbing, those two stayed.
Monday · Limit bouldering
about 100 min
Your hardest climbing of the week, on fresh fingers. The warm-up gets your feet and hips doing the work first, so trying hard means practicing good movement at your limit, not pulling harder.
Wednesday · Movement mastery
about 90 min
The session that broke my V8 plateau. Climbs where technique is the limit, not strength, repeated and climbed different ways until good positions are automatic.
Friday · Power bouldering
about 90 min
Power is coordination, not strength. Friday builds speed and accuracy into hard moves, and it's where you test your flash grade in weeks 1, 8 and 12.
Saturday · Strength and aerobic base
optional · about 45 min
The strength that stayed, hips and lock-offs, plus easy aerobic work so you recover between wall days. It's optional because the wall comes first.
Can't do Mondays? Shift the whole week and keep the spacing.
Weeks 1 to 4
Base: learn the sessions
Set your baselines: flash grade, max grade, and a boulder you film now and again in week 12. By week 4 you know every session cold.
Weeks 5 to 8
Build: the dials turn
Steeper terrain, harder limit attempts, heavier finger work. Week 8 is a deload and retest, landing on Thanksgiving week on purpose.
Weeks 9 to 12
Perform: cash it in
Projects with a written plan, the most explosive power work of the program, then a taper. Week 12 is your final test and the after film.
What you need
A bouldering gym with a hangboard and a campus board, a spray or system wall for weeks 9 to 12, and a barbell for the hip work (dumbbells work too). The optional day's cardio is whatever you have: bike, treadmill or outside.
